Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Priming Porelessly in Wonderful Nation of Foundation!


We all want flawless (or the appearance of flawless) skin.  Well, thank Goodness that art and science have now united, to grant this blessing to us, no matter what kind of skin we have!  Years ago, we would call our Avon lady or spackle on the closest color of pancake powder from the nearest drug store, and we didn't have many options back then.  
Now, we can have (the illusion of) a perfect complexion with today's makeup tools and anti aging arsenal.  However, there are many steps in order to create this seamless image, and I am here to help you achieve this look, while avoiding all pitfalls and mistakes along the way in getting you there!

First, let's discuss the different skin types, before we even get into priming!  There are several different skin conditions with different needs.  These are:  dry, combination, oily, acne (with or without oil), sensitive, and rosacea.  Always consult your dermatologist before applying any skin products and/or makeup; and make sure that you are using the correct skin care regimen to TREAT your skin, before applying primer and makeup.  Makeup is used to enhance and hopefully improve our appearance.  Today, there are foundations out there that will trustingly not aggravate our skin, but what we consider to be our daily washing, toning, and moisturizing routine, is what we depend on to protect and improve the texture, tone, and health of our skin.  

Dry Skin:  one word for you:  SUNSCREEN!  Somewhere in your age-fighting arsenal, you need to have a product that contains sunscreen.  Your skin type will unfortunately, be the first to start aging in the way of wrinkles, and the sun will exacerbate this.  Also, if you have dry skin, I suggest, even before primer, to apply a facial oil (email me for recommendations) over deep wrinkles.  This will plump up fine lines and make the skin look smoother.

Combination Skin:  talk about confused!  You have both dry and oily patches, mostly in the T-zone (nose, chin, and forehead).  If you have combination skin, make sure that you are not using products that are too emollient in that area, which will be causing the clogging in that T-zone.  You may have to use different moisturizers for different parts of your face.  

Oily Skin:  I would like to say you are the lucky ones, here, but it doesn't seem that way, now does it?  Research shows that your natural oil will slow down the aging process, and your makeup looks fabulous right after you apply it, but by noontime, all the color from your foundation is everywhere but on your face!  Again, there are oil absorbing lotions that provide just enough moisture to your face, so your skin doesn't freak out and produce more oil from the reaction of your stripping and robbing the natural moisture that your face would normally produce on its own.  

Acne:  this is a tricky one.  Some have acne with dry skin, and others have acne with oily skin.  The severity of your acne will dictate your needs.  The extreme form will warrant a prescription for Accutane.  Although there are side effects to consider, this is the next best thing to a cure, and will undoubtedly prevent disfiguring.  Of course this is all up to your dermatologist.  Without getting too in-depth, one thing to keep in mind with simple acne, is exfoliation!  Depending on your skin type, exfoliation with a glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acid based product is the way to go.  This will keep the cells turning over, at a rate which makes it difficult for the bacteria to lodge itself in the pores and cause breakouts.    

Sensitive:  if you can, stay away from fragrances.  I have found, that those with sensitive skin do best with all natural products that contain chamomile and calendula, barring any allergies.

Rosacea:  those mysterious red, annoying patches that seem to come out of nowhere!  Drinking alcohol can worsen or trigger an outbreak of rosacea, so drink accordingly (or not at all if you can).  You most likely will need a prescription from your dermatologist for rosacea, but again, calming agents like those for sensitive skin seem to help.  Anything labeled "for couperose skin" is geared toward treating rosacea.

PRIMING:  Look at it this way:  your face is like a canvas, and priming the canvas before the (makeup) artist applies the "paint" is necessary in most cases.  I used to think priming my face was a wasted step.  This was because I was layering on the WRONG primer, which is worse than applying no primer at all.  Thankfully, there are myriad of primers out there from which to choose.  There are even salicylic acid based primers for acne-prone skin, now.  I suggest that very oily skin types stay away from silicone-based primers.  They work wonders for dry skin, however!  I have come to appreciate primers for their purpose of reducing the look of pore size, wrinkles, and creating that smooth, seamless look that we talked about earlier.  Trust me, with the right primer, your skin will look flawless after your foundation is applied!  See your favorite makeup artist for a consultation in recommending the appropriate one for you! 

Foundation:  Ahhhh, I could go on for pages and days about foundation.  Foundation phobes, fear not!  There are all kinds of textures, from lightweight powders, tinted moisturizers, and BB and CC creams, to heavy, full-coverage formulations!  Traditionally, the first thing we would decide when choosing the correct foundation, is the type of coverage we want, from minimal, to full....those times are gone!  This is where science has introduced itself, and with the latest invention that I am so excited to announce, the steps are now reorganized!  I have been to Sephora recently, and the store has a new device that matches your "color IQ."  The makeup artist will hold this gizmo up to your skin, on usually 3 areas (cheek, jawline and neck, or forehead), to obtain an accurate reading.  The screen magically shows an endless array of options for your coloring.  From there, you can choose the texture you want, from the available selections.  Let me tell you, my experience was marvelous!  Because I am so pale, I used to slap on a self-tanner all over my body, and attempt to match my face with the same color of foundation.  Much to my peril, I looked older in pictures!  When I am wearing the correct foundation, my skin looks younger and more vibrant.  I learned to add color with blush and bronzer, and this is THE way to go!  Add your finishing touches with or without powder.  Today's foundations don't always necessitate "setting" with powder, anymore, especially with dry skin, and most specifically around the eye area. 

I cannot tell you how overjoyed I am that art and science have allied to give us the look that ageless icons from only decades ago, would envy today.  Historically, one must have been born with perfect skin, or else shy away from the camera.  Don't you just love technology?  Not to mention, we have so many eco-friendly and planet-conscious options that actually work!  Please share your tips and results here, I'm waiting!  

                                   Happy Fashion Fixing,
                                                     ~La Puma~!

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